Archive for Orkney

My Soul Land.

 

 ”We cannot live fully without the treasury our ancestors have left us”
                                                                          George Mackay Brown            

 

I knew of Orkney, but like many, was not sure exactly where it was! I knew of Scara Brae and Maeshowe and in my youth, I always had great ambitions to visit them one day. I never did, life got in the way…

A few years ago, my (then) new beau decided to take me on a tour of Scotland, as I’d never been and he knew and loved the country well. The plan was simple, travel up the East side, and across the top and back down the West side. We planed to spend Midsummer some where special, a Sacred place, perhaps Callenish Stone Circle, on Lewis. 

We’d been travelling for a week or so when we found ourselves at John A Groats a few days before Midsummer. We decided to stay on a little camp site, just a few miles outside the village, before heading West the next day.

That evening, we were talking to the owner of the site, when his wife came up to join us. I kept looking out to sea, wondering what the Islands in the distance where. They seemed familiar in a strange way, and were ‘calling’ to me! I had no idea what they were called, so I asked her.

“Oh that’s the Orkney’s,” she said.

“Orkney!” I exclaimed! And promptly burst into tears!!! I don’t know who was more shocked at my reaction!

“I have to GO!” I sobbed, breathlessly, as tears streamed down my face. I was utterly at a loss to explain why I was so upset. I felt really silly bursting into tears for no apparent reason. But I now know people often have such emotional reactions when faced with past life experiences.

Needless to say we got the morning ferry the next day, the ferry that takes the old Viking route along the Pentland Firth from Gill’s Bay in Caithness to St Margaret’s Hope, South Ronaldsay in Orkney. That in it’s self was a treat and we both took to imagining Viking longboats sailing the route, and laughed as we watched little Puffins flapping furiously across the ferry’s bows. So many sea birds, and seals too. With the fresh wind in my hair I enjoyed the  hour long journey, watching with a strange thrill in my body as the Islands drew closer and closer; I had the distinct feeling of increasing familiarity. Was I really coming home?

We docked and drove off onto Orkney, though the little town of St. Margaret’s Hope, a picturesque village of quaint houses and quirky little shops. My first impression was one of stepping back thirty years or more. I liked it! I liked it allot! But we didn’t tarry, we wanted to go on and explore a little and perhaps find somewhere to celebrate the solstice, so we drove on.

Orkney is a land, swept by the wind and rain. It’s open, treeless and some would say bleak, but not me. The land is farmed right down to the fore-shore and cliff tops, as it has been for generations of Orkneys inhabitants. Here and there are little ruined crofts, once home to many a family, now derelict and decaying. There are no villages as we would understand them. There are parishes; areas of homes scattered about the landscape; the nearest neighbours, not over the fence, but over the next field or two. This gives the land a wide open treeless vista.

You can see for miles! 

You can see the mountainous Island of Hoy just over the sea, so close you could touch it, but not drive there. You can see the Island of Shapinsay and Balfour Castle, just over the sea. Rousay, Wyre, and other little islands are all just over the sea and as we drove north, we left behind South Ronaldsay, and crossed over the Churchill Barriers on to Burray and the mainland, past sunken ships, their gapping hulls pearing at us as we passed. On we went, through Kirwall the capital of Orkney, on towards The Ring Of Brodgar and The Standing Stones of Stenness, Maes How, Skara Brae and the Ancestors!

I HAD come home!

 

My soul was zinging… I was in love with the place and I was on Orkney! I had to keep pinching myself to see if I was dreaming! 

We spent two weeks but a day there and had many adventures and experiences, which I will write about in the near future. Some were mundane, but most were magickal!

While I’d cried on the ferry, watching all the little des

 

erted islands along the way, spirits of long forgotten people staring out from the glass-less windows of th

 

e derelict homes, once so warm and cosy, but now forlorn and forgotten; I cried too, tears of joy at my ‘return’ and at the beauty of the place; it’s wide open, wind swept vistas; it’s friendly folk and I cried too when I left, thinking I would never return to the Land of my Soul!

Orkney calls me on the wind,

Orkney speaks to me in my dreams,

I miss Orkney,

And Orkney misses me..

…a love affair with my Soul Land,

That will never end.

©Cymraes2008

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A Thousand Screaming Spirits…

Off the northern edge of the Scottish coast, lies a Sacred Place, the Orkney Isles, where Neolithic man made his home in the far distant past, raised Sacred Circles of stone, and built many Sacred tombs for their dead, while they lived in stone built villages and worshipped long forgotten Gods.

When I first climbed the gentle sloping path up the hill to the Neolithic Cuween Burial chamber, above the bay of Finstown, I was accompanied by two friends on the walk. We chatted along the way, the warm October sun on our faces, at the wonderful weather for the time of year, and speculated that the climate for Neolithic man would have been very much warmer than now a days. 

Climbing over the style, the atmosphere shifted slightly, and as I opened the little gate to the passage way, and I suggested I go in first… I lit a candle and crawled in down the narrow passage way towards the chamber within, “Like being born backwards,” I mused to myself as my hands and knees got cold and wet as I slowly made my way along the damp flag stones, hued by ancient hands from the shore line thousands of years ago.

Again, I sensed a shift in my perspective.

I opened my “psychic senses” and paused, half way down the narrow tunnel; in my minds eye I saw an old woman; the ancient guardian of the tomb, challenge me, her eyes aflame with power, her wild hair all around her head, writhing in some unfelt wind, as she shook what seemed to be a staff or spear, at me threateningly, her toothless mouth moving to words I could not comprehend, but I knew, I had to beg her permission to enter the inner chamber. If I did not…

So I did so, reverently and with respect. Paused, and moved on, sensing her no more, I assumed I had done the correct thing and pleased the Spirits.

The narrow passage ended, opening up into the chamber-I felt a little afraid at what I might find-even tho’ my rational mind told me the chamber had been emptied long ago… I could sense much and what threw me was the fact that this was in reality a place of the dead. How smelly and dirty had it once been! I checked myself then, not wanting to run screaming from this place, but something deep inside me was urging me to do this NOW! Panic rose up into my throat as the reality of this ancient place took me… I pushed the candle before me and feeling in my bag, found another one and lit it. I had to go on, I just had to!

I lit another candle, then another, the panic subsided, and slowlyI moved on, standing slowly in the chamber, the light gathering as the flames lept up, filling the small interior with flickering light. I saw four side chambers, with their dark openings low to the ground.

My senses reeling, I slowly walked around, aware that from the one corner and energy radiated, my head swimming with it’s power.

I called the boys in and the atmosphere changed-it grew less intent and part of me was disappointed, and left wondering why.

We lit incense, meditated and one played on his flute… but for me the magick had dissipated. 

We spend a while in there, with the energies and then left-it felt right to leave the candles burning, and I intended to return to take the holders away the next day. I silently thanked the Spirits and closed the gate behind me, realising I had to go back again.

Standing and turning round into the sunlight, we found a gentleman, patiently waiting, he didn’t want to disturb us, he said in a soft American accent. We thanked him and told him the candles would still be burning and went to go on our way. 

I paused to read the information boards and to my surprised I saw, that half way along the chamber the archaeologists had found a skull-facing outwards, as tho’ guarding the tomb from intruders… I went cold and then hot. This was the guardian I had sensed!

We walked on up the hill to take in the view above the tomb, out towards the bay below, when suddenly the man we had spoken to, not five minutes earlier, rushed out of the tomb and took off over the style running down the path as tho’ followed by a thousand screaming spirits!!!!

Guess he never asked for permission to enter….

A true story.

On a Historical Note…

The Cuween Burial Chamber dates back some 3000 years and is known locally as the Fariy Knowe. The actual name, Cuween, is derived from the Old Norse, ”kúa-eng”, meaning Cattle Pasture. It lies on a south facing hill some 5 miles outside Finstown, over looking the Bay of Forth.

The lay out of the tomb, is of that of Maes Howe, a long passage way and four side cells of a central chamber. When it was fully excavated in 1901 by M.M. Charleson, remains of eight people were found, including one skull, facing outwards, in the roof of the low passage (less than one meter) way leading into the main chamber. Many animal bones were also found, including some 24 dog skulls. 

This has lead to speculation of a dog cult; that the dogs were totems for the tribe, who for many generations used this tomb. Other tombs have also been linked to the remains of animals and birds found in them on Orkney; The Tomb of the Eagles for one

©Cymraes 2008.

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